This morning as I log onto my computer a reminder popped up suggesting that I calibrate my monitor. I have gotten a little lax in calibrating my monitor every Monday morning since the monitor on my new laptop seems to hold calibration longer than my old one. But, that is no excuse for not calibrating on a regular schedule. I have written about the importance and benefit of color calibrating computer monitors in previous posts but since the last time I mentioned it was in June 2009 I thought it was time to mention it again. And, of course, I did calibrate my monitor this morning.

I use a Pantone huey that I have had for a couple of years and within a minute or so my monitor was calibrated. And, WOW, did it make a difference!

How can you tell if your monitor color is off? Here is a image of a GretagMacbeth Color Checker chart. The graduated grey color blocks on the bottom will help you determine if your monitor needs to be calibrated. If they are really grey(and white and black) and not a little blue or magenta or cyan then you are probably okay. If not, you need to calibrate. My guess is that even if you think it is grey, it is not. So, I suggest you invest in a monitor calibrator.

GretagMacbeth ColorChecker Chart

For us amateurs I would suggest either a Pantone huey or a Datacolor Sypder3express. The are available for about $90.00 and well worth the investment. Both companies have more expensive calibration devices, but unless you are a pro I would not spend the extra bucks.

If you are editing photos and trying to Make The Color Right, you really need to have a calibrated monitor unless, of course, if you are color blind like my friends, Dick and Ron.  They can save the money because it wouldn’t really make a difference. However, there are ways for color blind people to Make the Color Right and I will cover that in a separate post one of these days.

Wayne http://www.correctphoto.com

Photo Import Options
I normally use a card reader when importing pictures but decided to use the USB cable that came with the camera for this example. When I connected the camera cable into the computer Windows 7 automatically installed the driver for my Canon PowerShot G5. Then the Auto Play window popped up giving me several import options. The same option window will appear if you use a card reader or if you plug in the memory chip into a slot on your computer if it supports camera memory chips.

Windows 7 Auto Play Photo Import Options

 I prefer using Windows Explorer to organize and manage my photo files as opposed to Photoshop Elements, Windows Photo Gallery, or other photo organizing software as they tend to take over one’s computer and complicate the process.  The easiest import option is the first one in the list, “Import pictures and videos using Windows”.  The disadvantage of this option is that it forces you to import all of the photos in your camera to a single folder. Since most people are like me and have photos from multiple events in the camera by time they get around to downloading them I generally use the “Open device to view files using Windows Explorer” option. Here is a brief description using both methods.

Import pictures and videos using Windows
Selecting the Import pictures option will pop up the following window.

Windows 7 Import photos with AutoPlay-Enter Folder Name in Tag Field

The first time you use the import function you should click on Import settings and select the settings according to your preferences.  The “Tag” will become the destination folder for the imported photos.

Upload Photo Preference Window

I would suggest setting the Other options as shown. When you click the Import button Windows 7 will automatically create the new folder and transfer the photos to it.  When the transfer is complete Windows Explorer will open and by right clicking on a photo you can select the next action you wish to take. If you just want to look at the photos click on Preview. If you want to edit the photos click on Open with and select the photo editor. 

Right Click on thumbnail to select action

Open device to view files using Windows Explorer.
The the import method I generally use is the “Open device to view files using Windows Explorer as it provides the flexibility to put the photos into multiple folders. When you click on this option the following window will appear.

View camera photo files in Explorer-Select view Large Icons

Actually, when the window pops up it will probably show the “Tiles” view of the photos which are really too small for me. Windows 7 gives you a few more optional views. On the right side of the menu bar click on the little arrow and select Large or Extra Large Icons to increase the size of the thumbnail and it will be easier to select the photos you want to import into a particular folder.

Now left click on the first photo of the group and then hold the Ctrl key down and click on the remaining photos in the group (or, hold the Shift key down and click on the last photo in the group if they are in sequence). Then right click and select Copy.

Select photos to be copied to My Pictures folder

Open the My Pictures folder on your Desktop and select the destination folder for the photos. If you haven’t created a New Folder for the photos you can do so by clicking on New Folder in the Menu bar.

Select destination folder for photos

Then right click on the folder and select Paste and the photos will be transferred to the folder.

Copy photos to selected (Christmas 2009) folder

When the transfer is complete you can open the folder and select the next action or simply close it and go have a cup of coffee or whatever.

Well, Bob, I hope this helps answer the question, “How do I get my photos from my camera to my Windows 7 computer?”  Here are links to some other posts that might be helpful as you explore the wonderful world of digital photography and Windows 7.

A Simple Way to Organize Your Photos

http://www.correctmyphotos.com/2009/12/07/a-simple-way-to-organize-your-photos/

Storing and Archiving Digital Photos-A Simple Way.
http://www.correctmyphotos.com/2009/07/13/storing-and-archiving-digital-photos-a-simple-way/

Previewing Photos in Windows Vista (Win 7) and XP
http://www.correctmyphotos.com/2009/06/29/previewing-photos-in-windows/

Get the Red Out–What to do about Red Eye?

http://www.correctmyphotos.com/2009/06/10/get-rid-of-red-eye-in-photos/

Downloading Photos to Your Computer. Use Windows Explorer.
http://www.correctmyphotos.com/2009/05/21/downloading-photos-to-your-computer-use-windows-explorer/

Crop Photos for a Purpose.
http://www.correctmyphotos.com/2009/02/15/crop-photos-for-a-purpos/

Wayne www.correctphoto.com

Download and Organize Your Photos Before Editing
A number of months ago I wrote a post on transferring photos from your camera to computer so I won’t go into details of the procedure again.  Here is the process I used to organize the photos I took in November 2009. Note that I am now using Windows 7 so the screen shots might look a little different if you are using Windows XP or Vista, but the basics are the same.

1. Download photos to November 2009 file folder in My Pictures folder. 

Download photos to new folder in My Pictures folder

First, I created a New Folder (November 2009) within the My Pictures folder and downloaded all of the photos on the memory card to this folder. You could create multiple folders if you know what is on the memory card. But, if you are like me you probably don’t remember all the photos you took since the last time you transferred photos from your camera to computer.

2. Create New Sub-Folders to Categorize the Photos

After looking at the photos decide how many sub-folders you need to organize them. In my example, I decided to create four folders: Rotary, Garden, Elmore Cabin, and Bill’s Tools.

Create New Subfolders-Right click/New/Folder

To create the new sub-folders simply Right Click the mouse and then click on New-Folder and then name the folder. In this example I decided to keep all of the folders within the November 2009 folder, however, you could create separate folders under the My Pictures folder if you prefer.

3. Cut and Paste Photos into Selected Folder

Now you can select the photos you want to put into a specific folder (Hold the CTRL key down and click on the photos or the SHIFT key to select the first and last photos in a series) and then Right Click and click on Cut.

Select Photos the Cut and Paste into new folder

In this example I selected the photos I took at a Rotary meeting and pasted them into the Rotary folder. Just click on the selected folder, Right Click, and Paste to transfer the photos from the main November 2009 folder to the Rotary folder. Repeat the process until you have moved all of the photos to their respective folders and you will have organized your photos.

Repeat process until all photos are placed in new folders

Now that the photos have been organized the next step is to edit the ones that are worth fixing and keeping and deleting the ones that are not. And, you can rename then photo files if you like. I will talk about that in another post. There are number of post in my blog on photo editing. Go to http://www.correctmyphotos.com/category/photo-editing/

This is the easiest way to organize your photos using the file organizing features of the Windows operating systems (Win XP, Vista, and Windows 7). There are certainly more sophisticated organizing tools available in Windows Photo Gallery and Photoshop Elements, however, I prefer to control the process and keep it simple.

Wayne  www.correctphoto.com

Photo Studio Setup-Natural Light (left), Artificial Light (right)

The basic items you need for either setup is a digital camera, tripod, and back drop. I would also suggest a GretagMacbeth Color Checker Mini Gray Balance Card for reasons I will describe in the next post in this series—Photo Editing.

Digital Camera
You probably already have a digital camera that will work just fine. It should be at least 4 MP and have an aperture preferred mode of shooting.  Depending the on the size of the object you are photographing you may run into a depth of field issue (the front part of the object is sharp and the back is fuzzy) Setting the aperture manually instead of shooting in Auto mode on close up shots will solve this problem. Remember the higher the number the more depth of field you will have.  I use a Canon G5, a 5 MP camera that I have had for a number of years, and get very good results shooting my ceramic birds. 

Back Drop (or Background)
I prefer a neutral background (neutral is black, white, or gray, not biege or tan) Assuming the object you are photographing is small enough to be placed on a table I recommend a neutral gray flat (not shiny) background. White and black are other common choices, however a neutral gray is the best for shooting a colorful object.  I bought a couple yards of a gray fleece at a local fabric store. Before you buy the fabric look at it under natural light to make sure it is really gray and doesn’t have a little blue or other color cast. Also, you can get a smoother background with fleece than with a harder fabric. Note how the fleece is pulled away from the bottom edge of the box to make a smooth background.  If you can’t move the object you will want to remove as much clutter from around it before you shoot. You don’t want other objects to compete with the  item you are trying to sell.

Natural Light Set Up
My natural light set up is outside on our patio. This works in Minnesota in the summer, but I will either use our four season porch or artificial light in the winter. The important thing to note when using natural light is not to set up in direct sunlight. A bright cloudy day is great or wait until the area you selected is in the shade. The ideal setting would be a North facing room with big windows to bring in the natural light. (Now you know why artists like north facing studios.) The main advantage of using natural light is that you avoid shadows and glare that are difficult to avoid using artificial light unless you use a light tent.

Artificial Light Set Up
For indoor shooting I set up on the pool table in our lower level (a fancy name for basement). I have two daylight desk lamps that I position to minimize shadows and glare. You can also use a light tent and position the lights on the outside of the tent to diffuse the light and eliminate the shadows. I ordered one today so I will see how much difference that makes. Here is a photo comparison between the two lighting set ups. I do prefer the natural light approach, but the artificial light set up is pretty good.

Compare Artificial Light (left) with Natural Light (right)

Use a Tripod and Get Close
I recommend using a tripod and getting as close to the subject as practical. There are a number of reasons for using a tripod:

1. Unless you are shooting with a flash, which you do not want to do anyway, it is difficult to hold the camera steady enough to achieve a sharply focused close up image.

2. Since you will want to take multiple photos from different angles to give the prospective bidder an accurate impression of the item.  It is a lot easier and faster to take multiple photos if the camera remains in one position as you move the item.

3. Using a tripod with and adjustable head that will rotate the camera both vertically and horizontally will allow you to get the perspective that best illustrates the design and quality of the item.

4. If you have a number is similar items to photograph it is much faster with a camera on a tripod than holding it in your hand. I photographed 15 birds taking about 4 shots per bird in less than 10 minutes.

Below is the original natural light photo of the birds in the above comparison photo as an example of a close up shot that will show the detail and the quality of the birds. Although I used the Auto mode instead of the recommended Aperture Priority mode the overall focus of the birds is very good.  The lighting was pretty bright so the auto aperture setting was high enough to achieve an acceptable depth of field. As a general guide I would suggest setting the Aperture at f8 or higher. The camera will compensate for higher f-stops by slowing down the shutter speed—another reason to always use a tripod. Note that the gray card was positioned so it could be cropped out of the photo but still allowed for a high resolution close up of the birds.

Original Bird Photo Before Photo Editing

What Resolution?
Since I have a 5 MP camera I always shoot at the maximum resolution which gives results in a pixel count 2592×1944. While this is certainly a much higher resolution than you will upload to eBay it will give you enough to crop and show portions of the item for added detail. Cropping, resizing and color correction will be a topic in the next post on the Better eBay Sales with Better Photos series. If you have an 8 or 10 MP camera you could shoot at about half the maximum resolution (minimum of 4MP recommended). Here is an example of close cropping to show detail of the lower bird. A word of caution—not all photo editing programs will maintain the sharpness when cropping. This will be discussed in the next post on photo editing.

Crop Photo to Show Detail

Next Step: Photo Editing
Yes, even after you take the time and care to create your “Photo Shoot Studio” you will still have to edit the photo to optimize the presentation for maximum sales appeal. But, take heart. Help is on the way. I will cover photo editing for eBay in the next post.

Edit Photo for Maximum Sales Appeal-Before/After with CorrectPhoto

Wayne  www.correctphoto.com

Should you archive or create a backup file of the photos?
The answer to this question should be obvious–absolutely! But, how many people actually do that? When I ask my friends if they archive or create a backup of their photos, they  generally look at me with a blank stare. These are, of course, the same people who don’t back up their computer or back up files on their working C-drive. Think I am kidding? We get calls and emails from customers all the time that either did not backup their software file or backed them up on the same hard drive that just crashed. Duh!!

A simple way to create an archive or backup file of your photos.
First, go buy an external hard drive if you do not have one. They are relatively inexpensive (you can get a 250GB drive for less that $125.00) After you plug it in to your computer click on My Computer and then click on the external hard drive. Then click on the My Pictures folder (XP) or Pictures (Vista) and locate the folder you want to back up. (You did create a separate folder for the photos before you downloaded the photos, didn’t you?) Then click on the folder and drag and drop it onto the external hard drive. The files will copied to the external drive. Now, wasn’t that easy?

Create Backup to External Hard Drive-Use Drag and Drop

There are a variety of ways to back up and create archives of your folders ranging from on-line services to backup software applications, but this is a simple and straight forward way to create an archive copy of your photos. The real purpose of this post is to strongly suggest that you create a backup of your original and edited photos. How you do it is for you to decide. But, discipline your self to create the backup when you download the photos to your computer and then you won’t forget. And, you won’t be sorry when your hard drive crashes or you lose your laptop in the airport with all you photos on it. Your wife (or husband) will be very unhappy if you lose all of your photos.

Wayne  www.correctphoto.com